Close Work 2 – In and Out of the Yard

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In this follow-up to Close Work part one, Carew and Tess are each required to bring a small bunch of sheep into and out of the yard.

The task is more challenging for the pair than you'd expect because our dogs live in the yard, and they certainly make their presence felt when the sheep reach the gateway.

Andy gives a detailed explanation of what's happening as Carew and Tess both find the work quite difficult.

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Driving (Parts 1 – 3)

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THREE TUTORIALS to help you teach your dog to drive

PART 1.
Some sheepdog trainers dread teaching their dog to drive and it's understandable, because when we ask a dog to take the sheep or cattle away, it's contrary to the dog's instinct. If you understand what's going on though, it becomes much simpler, and more enjoyable for dog and trainer. In this tutorial you'll discover how to ease the dog into driving and reduce the stress involved when we ask the dog to take the stock away.

PART 2.
Following on from the first sheepdog driving tutorial, in this video, you will learn how to use your body position to maintain some control over the dog while it learns to drive. Just as when controlling the direction that the dog flanks around the sheep in the early stages of training, body position and point of balance are also crucial for controlling direction when teaching the drive. In this tutorial, Andy shows that putting himself in the right place at the right time, can make a huge difference to the behaviour of the dog.

PART 3.
Unashamed deception! Calling the dog back onto line when it's determined to hook the sheep back to you can be difficult and frustrating. As it drives the sheep away from the handler, the trainee dog is often so keen to get ahead of them and bring them back that it will ignore conventional flanking commands. In this tutorial, Andy uses what might be deemed an inappropriate command to call the dog back onto line and keep the sheep moving in the right direction.

Whistle (Part 1)

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If you work sheep at a distance, in bad weather or under noisy conditions, you need to use a shepherd's whistle, because the sound of the whistle carries much further than the human voice. This means the dog can hear our commands from farther away.

Unfortunately though, many people find sheepdog whistles difficult to blow.

In this tutorial, Andy describes his favourite whistles and those he avoids, before going on to clearly demonstrate how to get sound from the sheepdog whistle. He also gives examples of typical whistle commands.

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Close work (Part 1)

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Teaching a dog to bring the sheep to you in the open field is all very well, but your dog's capable of doing very much more to help you.

Efficiently moving sheep around at close quarters, as well as putting them into and bringing them out of yards, pens and races and taking them to fresh pasture are all essential tasks for the farm dog.

In this two-part tutorial, watch Carew and Tess try their paws at some realistic farm work before Kay shows us how it should be done!

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The Training Stick

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By far the most important tool we use for training sheepdogs is the lightweight plastic pipe.

We call it the Training Stick - and we wouldn't like to have to train dogs without one!

This tutorial describes how invaluable the training stick can be in the early stages of training, for controlling the dog's direction, it's pace, and the distance it works from the sheep or cattle.

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Give the Sheep Some Space

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If your dog's going to work sheep or cattle properly, it must learn to give them plenty of room.

If the dog keeps well back off the animals, they'll be much calmer, and subsequently far easier to manage than excited or frightened animals will be.

In this tutorial, you'll learn ways of encouraging your dog to go out wider, and keep well back from the sheep or cattle.

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