Sometimes nice is not enough

Does your dog need more confidence when working difficult sheep or other livestock?

WHY CAN’T I SEE THE VIDEO?

Photo of a sheep chasing a dog away

If you have a paid account with us please LOGIN.
Our sheepdog training videos are restricted to paying members who have logged-into their accounts.
Find out about our Online Sheepdog Training Tutorials.

Video Highlights

How you can improve your dog’s confidence, when working difficult stock.
Over-strict training, can damage your dog’s confidence.
You can see the dog in question, in the “Eve At The Pen” tutorial.
Don’t take away your dog’s right to defend itself.
Watch a dog showing courage when close to stubborn sheep.
Watch a ewe (with a lamb) chasing a dog away.
Ewes protecting their lambs can be particularly troublesome for dogs.
A dog struggling to bring a flock of sheep across a field.
Without help, it took the dog nine minutes to move the sheep about 150m.
Working quickly, can help to move stubborn sheep.
Watch the “Sheepdog Whistle” tutorials.
If the dog’s too far back, it can lose its authority over the sheep.
If you want to work two dogs at once, train them on different commands.
Alternatively, give the dog’s name before the command. (It’s not as good though).
Sheep don’t like fast-moving dogs, so if the dog moves quickly, the sheep will, too!
Once a stubborn flock is moving, keep it going by flanking the dog. (Wearing).
Be aware which is your most confident dog.
Watch a confident dog moving stubborn ewes, and cattle.
Now watch a less-confident dog, ignore a ewe which she knows is aggressive.
The same ewe, respects the more confident dog.
Building the confidence of your dog, is an important part of its training.
Correct dogs which are too aggressive, and encourage the less confident ones.
Encouraging the dog to protect itself, if it’s under threat of attack.
Once your dog knows it’s allowed to defend itself, it’s confidence will grow.
Set situations up so that the dog always wins (not the stock).
Both the dog and the sheep need protection, and it’s up to us to provide it.

Leave a review on our Google Profile! Comments or questions below please.

Needing a bit more grrrr!

It’s all very well training your dog to keep back from the sheep and not upset them, but what can you do if the sheep refuse to go where the dog’s trying to put them? For the welfare of the sheep, they simply must be handled, treated for any ailments and managed, so we need to teach the dog to get tough when the time arises.

Find out how Carew’s confidence when working difficult stock, grew immensely once she learned to be more assertive. As well as difficult sheep, Carew can now handle stubborn cattle with relative ease.

WATCH NEXT…
Tess In The Open Field


Comments

39 responses to “Sometimes nice is not enough”

  1. Ariel Greenwood avatar
    Ariel Greenwood

    Hi Andy, great video. I watched this and your video about sticky eyed dogs and have a question. I have a 3 year old border collie I use regularly for moving cattle. She has been a really useful dog from about a year old, and I have used her in a range of contexts, often moving hundreds or more animals at once, and I’d say she’s still getting better all the time, but I’ve noticed some trouble spots lately.

    Sometimes she accidentally splits one off or there is an animal away from the others, and then ends up in between me and the animal, often at a great distance. Every time the animal takes a few steps, she will too, such that she is keeping pace with their shoulder. I’d say she has improved in this but she isn’t learning how to solve this as quickly as we’ve gotten thru other tricky spots. She is the kind of dog I can say “get ahead” and she’ll fearlessly run and stop/turn large groups of cattle, so I almost think she is drawn to try to turn the animal from the nose (tho she rarely actually bites them) and is thus getting stuck at the front but from the wrong side relative to me.

    Sometimes I ask her to down so that the animal can get around her as they usually want to come to the herd, then I let her bring them and praise her. But I am concerned that my interfering may be making it worse by causing her to doubt herself. I’m usually horseback and sometimes ride over, but at that point I am away from the herd I need the animal(s) to join, so sometimes I wonder if I’ve created more confusion and should have let her solve it herself. On a related note, she also tends to solve the issue of a stuck bunch of cattle by circling them (ie, between me and them) a few times to get them moving, instead of staying behind them. This has been an issue lately with weaned calves who not only aren’t yet “dog broke” and curious.

    I suspect these 2 issues are closely related to some training fundamentals I need to revisit with a few calves inside a pen, but I don’t entirely know what they are. I watched your video about sticky eyed dogs and think your suggestions can help me a lot, but feel I still need help with this issue of her being “off sides.” Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

    1. Ariel Greenwood avatar
      Ariel Greenwood

      I should say, I’ve watched a bunch of your other videos too and find them all helpful, but am nervous about trying to solve this with my dog and have it set her back further without some more guidance.

    2. From your description, it’s a little difficult for me to get the exact picture, so please correct me if I’m wrong.

      My understanding is that the dog works really well most of the time (often moving hundreds of animals) but when one or a small bunch of animals get isolated from the herd, rather than going to get it and reuniting it with the herd, she tends to put herself between you and the animal, and even prevents it from going back to the herd (unless you tell her to lie down).

      First, I should point out that she doesn’t “accidentally” split one away from the others… When you get time, please watch several of the early tutorials in the order they appear on the Library page. That will give you a far better understanding of what’s going on with your dog – and the cattle. I know they’re predominantly about sheep, but even so, the basics are all the same.

      The dog is using its HUNTING instinct when it works cattle, sheep or any other stock. In its primitive form, that instinct tells the dog to hunt down the prey, single one out (not accidentally) and hold it in place for the pack leader (you) to move in, and kill. We modify that instinct to suit our own needs, and fortunately dogs are highly trainable, and they fall in with our needs.

      So in the scenario you describe, the dog sees an opportunity to select an animal (or small bunch) and is holding it/them for your approval/selection.

      You mentioned large distances – and that’s a big part of the problem. At some stage, you have moved-on too quickly with the dog, and although it’s not a problem most of the time, occasionally something that was perhaps, skipped-over, becomes a problem. Keeping the stock TOGETHER at all times (except when commanded to separate them).

      The proper way to fix this issue is to go back to basic training, and drum it into the dog that she MUST keep the stock together. Personally, I would probably try to get round it in the field though. When the dog is holding an animal or animals fairly close to you, I suggest you TRY calling her back towards you, and as she gets nearer, send her back on an outrun, to deal with the isolated animals. If she’s too far away, this won’t work, so while the dog’s on her way back to you, get yourself closer to the action.

      The closer you are to the dog, the more control you have over it (and the more confidence the dog has). As I said earlier, your problem is that you’ve moved-on too quickly.

      I really think you should watch at least half a dozen or so of the first videos, to get a better handle on things, but well done for getting to where you are! (I want to come and watch you working your dog on horseback)!

      PLEASE be sure to let me know if I’ve mis-understood the problem in any way – and it would be great to hear how you get on with solving the problem.

      1. Ariel Greenwood avatar
        Ariel Greenwood

        Thank you Andy. Yes, you understand my problem well. I appreciate the advice very much. I’ll watch the videos you mentioned and observe your suggestions and let you know how it goes in a few weeks!

  2. Arye Ehrenberg avatar
    Arye Ehrenberg

    Hello Andy. great & helpful tutorial.
    How can I apply this in training or farm work, and avoid being disqualified in the trials, as the dog might bite a sheep?

    1. You only use the training methods in this tutorial if the dog is lacking confidence, but even with normal training, it’s up to the handler to correct the dog if it’s too aggressive. That way, the dog will learn that it must not bite the sheep unless it really needs to.

  3. Micha Hamersky avatar
    Micha Hamersky

    HI!

    Our 2,5 year old dog loves to go hard on the legs of our cattle…he loves to push hard and especially when the start moving, he loves to grip too. I can controll him and not let him, but I would like to have him more laid back and only do it when its needed.
    Do I simply have to continue yelling at him, if he does and should not, or are better ways to make him understand and feel confident to only use it when needed only?
    thanks
    Micha

    1. The secret is to give just enough correction so that the dog doesn’t go in too hard, Micha – and avoid rapidly repeated, and high-pitched commands.
      You have already pointed out that you know the situations when he’s most likely to grip, and you’ll also know how his body language changes a moment before he launches at them. These are your signals to (a) be ready to correct him, and (b) give a SINGLE sharp correction JUST BEFORE he launches at the cattle. (If you possibly can). With practice you should be able to tell the precise moment when your command is most effective.
      Don’t forget to praise the dog when he’s behaving well though. Praise him in a soft, happy voice, but be prepared for him to take it as a signal to dive-in again. Dogs like yours tend to have a very light “trigger” when it comes to gripping. Stop him doing that, and continue to praise him whenever he’s working properly. Dogs love being praised, so it’s a useful training aid.

      I was a little surprised to see your question on this page! This tutorial is intended for people who need to give their dog some extra GRRRRR! Your dog sounds as though he’s not short of it! As you mentioned, he needs the opposite. That’s all about CALM – and it begins with the handler.
      Avoid sounding excited – there’s nothing better for exciting the dog. Be calm at all times – or at least give the dog the impression that you’re calm.
      Dogs need good leadership. Getting excited is not what good leaders do. They remain calm at all times, and give clear commands – strong when required, but not screeching. Watch “How Can I Slow The Dog Down” and “Calm But Firm” to learn more about getting your dog to work calmly.

  4. Barbara Mazur avatar
    Barbara Mazur

    Last week, inside our arena, the sheep turned on my dog as she stood by the wall – almost like ganging up on her. Would going in there and shooing the sheep away be helpful?
    She got herself in that predicament by scattering the sheep then having a hard time getting them back together. I’m fairly new as a handler and not sure how to help her. There was a clinician there who told me to get her to me with a that’ll do and start over.
    I would like to know how to help her and how to teach her that she can nip if necessary. How do you teach a “bite on command” ? Right now, she air snaps. Thx!

    1. If you don’t already know that I strongly encourage trainers to get alongside their dog and help it to move sheep when it’s confidence is lacking, that suggests you have not watched many of the tutorials which appear first in the Tutorials Library, Barbara. It’s important to watch them, as you’ll get a far better understanding of how a sheepdog works, and how best to go about training the dog.
      There’s an awful lot about increasing the dog’s confidence in the tutorial on this page “Sometimes Nice is Not Enough“, so I suggest you watch it again, at least once. There’s more in the “Starting a Non-Starter” tutorials, too. In those, I grab a sheep, and encourage the dog to grab it, too – but you need to watch the tutorial to put it into context – and for the SAFETY aspect of it!.
      Your dog will be fine. She just needs guidance (and a little help, to boost her confidence).

  5. Jane Hart avatar
    Jane Hart

    As an amendment to what I wrote yesterday, the times when my dog has grabbed sheep is when she has been pushing them into a pen and one has broken away and jumped over her. She is so desperate not to let it go that she grabs it. I was thinking that she would be better if she learned to stand rather than lie down in front of them but this hasn’t been easy to teach her. Today we were taking sheep back to the field after clipping. The sheep that sometimes has a go at her faced her and she nipped it on the nose. This was enough to turn it away so that was just what she needed to do. I don’t think she recognised it clipped. I was there as backup but nice not to be needed.

    1. The behaviour you describe is perfectly normal Jane. Your dog is learning all the time, and will be a first-rate sheepdog I’m sure.
      I used to think it was better if the dog stayed on its feet, but these days, I don’t think it makes much difference, confidence-wise. A dog which is lying down is rather like a coiled spring (ready to jump into action) whereas a dog standing upright, has to bend its joints and tense its muscles before it can spring. Look at the way sprinters start a race (crouched down) compared to marathon runners who set off more slowly from a standing position. These days I prefer to let the dog decide whether to lie down or stay on its feet.
      It’s difficult to get the balance just right between discouraging gripping but at the same time, encouraging the dog to have more confidence. You seem to be on the right track, but if your corrections are causing the dog to lose confidence, they’re too strong (back-off a little).
      I hope you praised the dog when she nipped the sheep’s nose! It’s so important to praise the dog when it gets something right.

      1. Jane Hart avatar
        Jane Hart

        Thanks a lot, that’s very encouraging.

  6. Jane Hart avatar
    Jane Hart

    Hello, I have encouraged my dog to stand up for herself but a couple of times she has grabbed sheep and hung on. Also she has grabbed lambs which have walked towards her. I have told her off for doing this and we are now back her having not much push and turning away from sheep that stand up to her. I am not sure how to get the balance right as I don’t want her hurting my sheep. She is 2 years old. Should she still gain confidence at this age?

  7. Jane Hart avatar

    Hello Andy, I have been training our 15 month old collie since she was about 7 months old. She does training on the hoggs and helps with the farm jobs too (we only have a small 9 acre farm so there’s not that much work). She seems to struggle to move sheep that don’t want to move eg moving sheep out of fields into the yard. One of our new ewe hoggs faced up to her and she backed off. I don’t know if this is because I have discouraged her from being too hard on the sheep, or if I have been making her do too much too soon. Can a dog like this learn to stand her ground?

    1. Too much discouragement won’t help of course, but you have to protect the sheep! The dog’s confidence can certainly be built up though Jane – with a little help from you!
      Watch the tutorial carefully and make sure you’re close to the dog when she needs encouragement. Give her lots of enthusiastic support and if necessary, encourage her to nip (on command). It will boost her confidence to know that if necessary she’s allowed defend herself.
      It helps to actually move a stubborn sheep yourself at first.

      1. Jane Hart avatar

        Thanks a lot! Even though I have watched the tutorial I still felt the need for a bit of encouragement (a bit like my dog does..). I’ll just have to be careful with her and support her all I can. I feel like if she just did one nip it might be all she needs to do to gain confidence and for the sheep to see she means business.
        Best wishes,
        Jane

  8. Oliver Hosier avatar
    Oliver Hosier

    Hi there, is a there a video that teaches how to drove, not drive. My dog isn’t to keen to walk beside me and drove them, but always wanting to head them off, especially going through gateways.

    1. Getting the dog to walk beside, or slightly in front of you is the first stage of teaching a dog to drive. If you’ve got a good stop on the dog, just follow the “Driving” tutorials and you’ll do it. If you haven’t got a good stop on your dog, you’re “trying to run before you can walk” (as it were).

      Stop the dog when it’s close, and then call it to you. Once the dog is really close, begin to walk towards the sheep, but keep calling the dog back – it’s all in the “Driving tutorials“.

  9. Oliver Hosier avatar
    Oliver Hosier

    Hi there are there any videos on working two dogs at once, and roughly how many sheep toons dog would you advise.

    1. We don’t have a video about working two dogs at once Oliver, because you really need to train each dog on totally different commands from day one. I’ve tried doing that, and quite honestly, I get mixed-up when it comes to remembering which dog is on what command!

      You also need to be able to keep one dog still, while you work the other dog , and then swap over, with the first dog doing the work while the other dog keeps still.

      I have managed to work two dogs by calling the dog’s name immediately before the command, so that eventually they learn to ignore any command which is preceeded by the other dog’s name. That worked well with Carew and Kay a few years ago, but I haven’t had two dogs of the right temperament to try it since!

  10. Regine Crutain avatar
    Regine Crutain

    Hello Andy and Gill and all the others that are finding how wonderful and useful Border Collies can be, Our little Nilka arrived on our farm when she w as 11 months old. Last September ,she was out of control!! Being novices and not having discovered Andy and Gills website we made a lot of classic mistakes!, We have been very lucky that our young dog is very determined and just wants to work and to please us!! Without going into lots of details I would like to say that what I have experienced is that by watching and listening carefully to Andy,s tutorials and working as a team with a young dog has for us proved to be very successful! !! The same as an apprentice get in there with them and show them what you want them to do!! Good Luck to all of you! !

  11. Jen Larrivee avatar
    Jen Larrivee

    Hi Andy, Thanks for the excellent video. Do you have a lesson on teaching a proper grip on the nose? When working tough range sheep, our dogs need to walk in directly, and if necessary, snap at or nip on the nose and hold their ground. I was just wondering if you had any other ideas for teaching this type of grip. We often do corner work, as well as in the pens, but I am always looking for new ideas. Thanks again. I am enjoying all your videos during the cold, winter months. Take care.

    1. Hmm… What you see in this video is what we do Jen. So far we’ve had no complaints from those who think they know more about animal welfare than you or I (if you know what I mean) and I want to keep it that way.

      If you want to develop it further, that’s up to you, but for our requirements, Carew was doing a pretty good job of “holding her own” as you put it, with cattle and sheep. I know some shepherds train their dogs to catch and hold sheep – particularly at lambing time, but to be honest, lambing time is the one time when sheep most need to be stress-free, so I’m not at all sure about it.

      If you watch “Starting a Non-starter” you’ll see that I talk about grabbing a sheep in a confined space (corner work?) and then the dog dives in and grabs it too. I use it to spark the interest of a dog that doesn’t want to work, but I can tell you from experience that it sparks the interest of workers, too! This would create various opportunities for training, as I’m sure you can imagine.

      We had a similar enquiry recently (on this link) and since then I’ve been toying with the idea of a tutorial about it – we’ll have to see! I’d love to hear how you get on, if you try it.

  12. Awesome tutorial! It’s interesting seeing the comparison between the two dogs.
    While my dog works sheep and cattle confidently in the open field he lacks a lot of confidence in the yards mainly due to some negative experiences with stubborn and aggressive sheep in the yards. And when he was a puppy about 12 weeks old and only seen sheep a couple of times he was kicked by a cow resulting in a broken leg and a few weeks stuck in the house. So in an effort to keep his energetic kelpie brain occupied he learnt a lot of simple tricks, one of them being to speak on command – and he became quite good at it. When he saw some cattle a few weeks later when we were fencing near their paddock he was absolutely terrified whenever he caught sight of them and would run whining to the nearest person or vehicle(no doubt recalling his previous experience with them). But later that same day when the cattle(5m old poddy calves) came sniffing curiously at him where he was cowering under the car I told him to “Speak” so he moved towards them and did just one woof which sent the calves scattering away in fright – and that’s all it took! he couldn’t resist the desire to head them off so of he shot and after a few confrontations that resulted in the calves turning away from him when he barked he was working them quite confidently and has never had any confidence issues around cattle again!

    1. Sometimes that’s all it takes, Anna! Great to hear that despite a troubled start your dog’s regained much of his confidence. Thank you for the feedback – it’s so valuable to us.

  13. Kathy Bielek avatar
    Kathy Bielek

    Andy, another excellent and very helpful tutorial. Thank you! I could use some more information, though, on ‘heavy’ sheep. We have a small flock of Katahdins with 20 mature ewes and 10 replacement yearling ewes, and a 13 month old Border Collie bitch, Pippin. I started training Pippin on the replacement ewes last summer after weaning when they were just 4 months old. The mature ewes and yearlings are in separate paddocks for the winter, but will be back together in the barn for lambing in about three weeks. Right now, Pippin is holding back both groups of ewes while I feed hay in feeders in the pasture, and then we practice outruns, flanks, and figure eights around the pasture with the mature ewes. All of the sheep are ‘heavy’ and the older ewes are becoming increasingly difficult, especially the last couple weeks as we get closer to lambing. The yearlings are the worst – they simply stand still! Pip sometimes gets frustrated and will jump at the yearlings especially, and I’ve started to encourage this after watching your tutorial. But so far, it hasn’t done much good (it does work pretty well with the mature ewes). I suspect they’re so heavy partly because they’re getting so big and partly because they’ve become so accustomed to Pippin’s practice sessions? Is it possible the ewes will become easier to move after they lamb and once we start rotational grazing again? Or is this likely to be permanent? They were easier last fall. Will continuing to let Pippin attempt to work the ewes when they are so uncooperative affect her self-confidence? Will it reinforce the ewes’ lack of respect? I like to let Pip do something besides just hold the ewes back each evening, but would I be better off not letting her work them until after lambing? Is it likely that using a friend’s dog to work the ewes will help, or will they just go back to being heavy once Pip is working them alone again? Finally, how do I make sure that this year’s replacement ewe lambs don’t become so heavy? Thanks so much again!

    1. The more sheep get worked with dogs, the more “dogged” they will become, Kathy, but even with a skilled dog it’s not a good idea to work pregnant ewes any more than is absolutely necessary. It’s fine for Pippin to keep the ewes back while you’re feeding them if she’s doing it sensibly, but other than that I think you should give them as much peace and quiet as possible. Once the lambs are born, the mothers are likely to be even more defensive – and who can blame them?
      When the lambs are weaned, the ewes might be a little more easy going, but if they already know they can stand up to Pippin, they won’t forget.

      Working a trainee on heavy sheep like these will damage her confidence unless you get in there with her and make sure the dog is successful.

      Is it not possible to obtain a few of last year’s lambs, or three or four “cull ewes” (ewes no longer suitable for breeding)? This would give the poor dog a better chance of success.

      1. Kathy Bielek avatar
        Kathy Bielek

        Hi Andy. Many thanks for the advice and insight. You’re right – I’ve always kept my dogs away from the ewes this late in gestation. But, Pippin is so much softer and the ewes don’t seem at all stressed and rarely move at more than a walk, so it didn’t occur to me earlier. This might be a good time for Pip to bow out for a while.

        I’ll have to give some thought to how I can keep some ‘fresh’ sheep available without compromising biosecurity. Our ewe lambs from last spring will be lambing themselves in just a few weeks (approximately on their first birthday). They’re the ones who are the most difficult to move right now. The background information you’ve provided really helps me to understand and hopefully anticipate some of the problem areas.

        Pippin will be absolutely essential when we start trying to move ewes with baby lambs back out on pasture, but I’ll be very careful to either keep her on lead or find some other way to ensure she’s safe from protective mothers. A tutorial on working with and/or moving ewes and young lambs would be helpful!! Weather permitting, we like to get ours out on pasture by 2-4 weeks of age.

        Thanks again for your time. The information you provide is so helpful, and the opportunity to have questions answered so valuable!!

        1. If Pippin’s not stressing the ewes it’s probably OK for her to be around them, but she’ll need to assert more authority when you need to move the ewes, so you need to plan how you’re going to achieve that. A few fresh sheep would be a big help.
          I’m really surprised you breed from lambs. Here in the UK, the rams will be put with last years lambs this coming October so they’ll be 18 months old at that point. On the occasions when they’ve accidentally bred earlier, it restricts the growth of the ewe and the lamb quite severely.
          When it comes to moving the ewes and lambs, I’d try to avoid using a lead, but I’d keep Pippin close to me so that I can help her if she’s in trouble. Be very careful though. If a ewe is trying to attack her, it might miss the dog and hit you…
          The best thing is to teach her to nip a troublesome sheep, on command. If she knows she’s got that option in reserve it’ll boost her confidence. The sheep will learn to respect her too. Watch “Sometimes Nice is Not Enough” again!

          1. Kathy Bielek avatar
            Kathy Bielek

            Thanks for the advice on what to anticipate with Pippin and how to manage through lambing. Your tutorials have a wealth of knowledge. Hopefully by the time the lambs are ready to move, I’ll have had a chance to watch them all!

            As far as breeding ewe lambs, it’s fairly common practice here. We have a moderate sized breed (average ewe size is 150 lbs) and we’ve successfully selected for early maturity for 15+ years. You’re right, it does require more management. And yes, lambing at 12 months of age does slow growth somewhat, but we find that by the time the ewes are three years old, they weigh the same as ewes that lambed for the first time at two years old. And yes, twins out of yearlings are smaller (singles are usually the same size as twins out of mature ewes). But it’s an environmental effect, not genetic, and they catch up. If managed appropriately, we’ve seen no negative effects to ewes or lambs.

            Thanks again for your help. I’ll get back to watching more tutorials!

  14. Muriel Naughton avatar
    Muriel Naughton

    Thank you Andy and Gill. This is a really useful video for real working situations. I have a fast but sensitive young dog who tends to avoid/ignore difficult sheep. She will grip occasionally and has learned to bark if we’re pushing sheep up and I put her on a lead. Her confidence is growing and I love the idea of a particular noise to encourage her to turn an animal.

    1. Thank you for your comments Muriel. I’m glad to hear your dog’s confidence is increasing.

  15. jack mcnulty avatar
    jack mcnulty

    Great timing on the video, I am new to sheepdogs and bought a part trained dog around 8 months ago. He is not the most confident of dogs but whilst the sheep are moving well and stick together he does all I ask of him. He has had to work with the ewes and their lambs for the last few months and it has set him back in training as he has lost confidence, he has become quite sticky and will refuse to move if he becomes uncomfortable. I have not helped by telling him off for going in on a ewe, he gripped and held her face, resulting in a bleeding cut. Although he did let go when told off, I am concerned for the welfare of the sheep and it felt like he was biting out of frustration rather than assertion. I would like to build his confidence and teach him the right way to respond to a challenging ewe. Do you have a few pointers in this direction. Thanks.

    1. Jack, you were quite right to correct the dog for a hard grip which damaged the sheep’s face. The dog must learn to use the minimum of force to get the job done. Hanging on is not the minimum!
      Try to encourage a nip – perhaps under a less stressful situation – quickly correcting it if the dog goes in too hard. Don’t wait until the dog’s in a situation where it will be frightened before encouraging it to push – perhaps try to encourage him to push them harder when they’re already moving (then he’ll only grip a woolly back end).
      If the sheep stop, get up close and help the dog – correcting him if he’s getting too aggressive.

  16. Nancy Creel avatar
    Nancy Creel

    Great editing and presentation on this video. I loved learning about the differences in the two dogs. Very interesting to see Kay blow by the sheep in the hedge and “pretend” not to to see them. Also to hear Carew’s backstory and how you worked to bring up her confidence.

    Awesome segment!

    1. Thank you for your kind comments, Nancy. It’s very important for us to get feedback on the tutorials – and nice to know our efforts are appreciated. There’s a new tutorial coming in the next few days.

  17. Martin Wardle avatar
    Martin Wardle

    Andy, many thanks for this video, it will help me encourage and stimulate my youngster to gain the confidence to move up to stubborn sheep that try to face the dog off. I has certainly given me reassurance that my training with him is all going in the correct direction and my thinking and planning is travelling parallel to it.

    Many thanks

    1. Good to hear that you find the tutorial useful, Martin. Of course, the welfare of the sheep is important too, but it’s vital the dog has the confidence to do the job.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *